Ragù, also known as Bolognese: In Search of the Original

Ragù — the pasta sauce known in German-speaking countries as Bolognese and unquestionably the most popular pasta sauce among both children and adults — is, at least for certain guardians of Emilian cuisine, a serious matter. Which is why it continues to be endlessly discussed, researched, and reconsidered.

The result of all this reflection and research was, a few years ago, a reformulation of the ultimate ragù recipe. In a ceremonial act, and “following long and profound investigations by the Comitato di studi dell’Accademia Italiana della Cucina,” it was finally — notarized and all — entered into the register of the Bologna Chamber of Commerce.

Vinonudo recreated the new recipe. The fact that we are writing it down here should be taken as confirmation that it was absolutely worth it.

Into the shopping bag went: 150g pancetta, 400g minced beef (coarsely ground), and double-concentrated tomato paste. Onion, carrots, celery, wine, tomato sauce, homemade beef broth (interestingly, stock cubes are officially permitted here), milk, salt, and pepper we already had at home.

You begin with the pancetta. 150g is really not a small amount, and whether the three tablespoons of olive oil needed to fry the finely diced pork belly are actually necessary is debatable. In any case, we followed the recipe dutifully. Once the pancetta had practically melted away, we added the equally finely chopped vegetables and slowly sweated them over low heat until soft. Then the temperature was raised and the minced beef added to the pot. It was browned for 10 minutes while being constantly stirred and then deglazed with red wine (both red and white wine are permitted). The wine must evaporate completely.

Next came the tomato paste, the passata, and the beef broth, and then the lid went onto the pot (the original ragù is cooked with a lid on!). The heat was subsequently reduced to a minimum so the ragù could simmer away gently.

Halfway through the cooking time (between 2 and 3 hours), we added a glass of milk — as tradition dictates — and finished cooking the ragù. Naturally, we also seasoned it with salt and pepper.

And if you are already making the original recipe, then you should absolutely serve it with tagliatelle.

There are a few permitted variations. These include: mixed minced meat (60% beef and 40% pork), meat finely chopped by hand with a knife, and a hint of nutmeg.

But there are also several prohibitions: veal mince, smoked pancetta, pork-only mince (without beef), garlic, rosemary, parsley or other herbs and spices, brandy (instead of wine), and flour (although presumably nobody does that anyway).

We drank the Lambrusco Trifalco alongside it with great pleasure.

Anyone wishing to follow the original Italian recipe can find it here.

Ingredients

• 150g pancetta
• 400g minced beef
• 60g onion
• 60g carrots
• 60g celery stalk
• 1 glass red wine
• 200g passata di pomodoro
• 1 tbsp double-concentrated tomato paste
• a little beef broth
• 1 glass milk
• salt and pepper