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Reggio Emilia is the least known of the provincial capitals of Emilia. The centre is nice but small and although there are exhibitions and festivals almost every month, few tourists visit it. Situated midway between Parma and Modena, Reggio lacks the profound identity and history of the other two cities, but is at least in the same league when it comes to food and wine.

Ca' de Noci is located 25 kilometres south of Reggio Emilia, where the Apennines slowly fade into the Po Valley. Walnut trees line the driveway to the winery and explain its etymological origin. When we arrive, we are greeted by Alberto and Giovanni Masini. The two brothers belong to the classic avant-garde of Emilia. They have been opposing since 1993, the year they took over the winery. Since then, they have been recognised as a benchmark for high-quality natural wine in the region.