There are grape varieties from which great or at least impressive wines can be made, and others that, while not capable of producing such wines, can still be quite likable—provided they have a winemaker who takes them seriously and understands them. Glera, the grape variety used to make Prosecco, is perhaps the best example of this. Fundamentally quite insignificant, it can acquire at least a bit of character in the right hands.
Ortrugo is another such variety. Unlike Glera, however, it never wanted to be in the spotlight, as its name suggests: it was first mentioned in 1881 in the ampелographic bulletin of the Italian Ministry of Agriculture as Altruga, or "altra uva"—"other grape"—meaning the one that was a step below the other grapes. Nevertheless, it was still cultivated. Less for being vinified entirely on its own, but rather to support Malvasia di Candia Aromatica—a undoubtedly great grape variety—by combining its power and expansive aromatics with a bit of restraint.
For this purpose, it is perfectly suited, and thus it flows, as a delicate and filigree partner, into some of the most important orange cuvées of Emilia.
Since Malvasia di Candia Aromatica is found almost exclusively in the four valleys of Piacenza that branch off towards the Apennines (Nure, Arda, Tidone, and Trebbia), Ortrugo, whose fate is linked to it, is also found almost exclusively there.
