To clear up any confusion right away, Pecorino is indeed also a cheese and, as such, is much better known than the grape variety of the same name. This grape variety is primarily found in the southern Marche and northern Abruzzo regions, and even then, only recently, as it was virtually lost for a long time. It was only through the pioneering efforts of Guido Cocci Grifoni in the 1980s that the variety resurfaced in the vineyards of these two regions.
Since then, however, it has been planted by a large number of winemakers. Although not many groundbreaking single-variety interpretations have been produced so far, the wines made from Pecorino impress with their invigorating acidity, substantial body, and—depending on the soil type—herbal, floral, and light fruity aromas. Additionally, the grape variety is the star of Vento e Sale, one of the best white wines on the Italian Adriatic coast, in my opinion.
Pecorino certainly has the potential for great wines. It boasts a powerful acidity and, thanks to generally quite low yields, rarely lacks sufficient alcohol and body. Due to the relatively recent rediscovery of this grape variety, there is still room for improvement, especially regarding vinification. A short maceration is certainly not a disadvantage, and aging in large wooden barrels, which has rarely been practiced so far, could also be worthwhile.
