Infos & Tipps: Unterwegs in Südtirol, Teil eins

Infos & Tips: On the Road in South Tyrol

South Tyrol is a land of contrasts – that's nothing new, and it's often invoked in a clichéd way. But in fact, this region is full of diverse tensions and contrasts: impressive mountain peaks and palm trees, mountain farming and viticulture. Remote valleys and urban structures. Brass band music and the avant-garde Transart Festival. And of course – due to history – three language groups.

The good news: many South Tyroleans have learned to live with and even love these contrasts. On Sundays, people go climbing on the Second Sella Tower, order fantastic dumplings in German at a mountain hut, then on Monday head to work at the NOI Tech Park in Bolzano and meet up afterward for an aperitivo, chatting with friends in Italian. Or something like that.

Winegrowing in South Tyrol is also full of contrasts. For a long time, the region was known for its cooperative wineries with a very technical approach to winemaking. And while these are still dominant in terms of volume, there are now more than just a handful of wineries producing outstanding and characterful wines through artisanal and natural methods. Among the most notable are Martin Gojer and Marion Untersulzner of Pranzegg, who are redefining what South Tyrolean wine can be, as well as PIWI pioneer Thomas Niedermayr, who perhaps more than anyone else in the world is proving that PIWIs are fine wine-worthy. Then there’s Daniel Sigmund, who is coaxing surprising elegance from the Eisack Valley.

More and more restaurants are recognizing this potential. In South Tyrol, not only is food consistently served at a high or even top-level standard (another piece of good news: you eat well almost everywhere – from village inns to Michelin-starred temples), but nowadays, you’ll also find truly exciting wines on many menus.

At Meteo in Merano...


Two culinary recommendations that pick up on this theme of contrasts are Meteo in Merano and Baita Sangon on Seceda in Val Gardena.

Meteo feels like an urban UFO that has landed in a magnificent turn-of-the-century villa on Merano’s Gilf Promenade. The interior exudes retro chic, while the terrace above the rushing Passer River breathes Mediterranean flair. Agatha Erlacher is responsible for an unconventional but outstanding service experience, and Thomas Strappazzon is the artist in the kitchen, creating Mediterranean-inspired dishes that never feel forced or overly contrived.

The wine cellar is upstairs – and it’s climate-controlled. It’s also excellently stocked with rare gems from the Italian natural wine scene. Naturally, South Tyrol is well represented, but you’ll also find exciting bottles from Valtellina to Sicily.

 

At Baita Sangon on Seceda


If the evening at Meteo didn’t completely get out of hand – which, considering the place, the food, and the wines, is entirely possible – then a hike the following day isn’t just a reasonable idea, it’s practically mandatory given the breathtaking landscape.

We recommend Seceda in Val Gardena. It’s by no means an insider tip, but first, the mountain scenery in this Ladin-speaking valley is truly spectacular. And second, on the expansive alpine meadows of Seceda, you’ll find Baita Sangon – a place that not only serves excellent traditional dishes, but also pours a wide range of South Tyrolean natural wines.

Here, you can enjoy a fluffy Knödeltris (a trio of dumplings) with a glass of Tonsur by Pranzegg, all while gazing at the dramatic north face of the Sassolungo.

 

(And if you’re less concerned about wine, about an hour’s hike away is the Lech Sant hut, where you’ll find truly outstanding Schlutzkrapfen, South Tyrol’s version of stuffed pasta.)


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