Sicily

Part 1: Mount Etna

Perhaps the most exciting region in Sicily (although, in our view, other regions—especially the west—are vastly underestimated) lies on the slopes of Mount Etna. Over the past 20 years, countless new wineries have been established here, reviving old vineyards and producing wines from Nerello Mascalese and Carricante that have made waves not only across Italy but also on the international stage in an astonishingly short time.

There are many reasons behind the hype: ancient vines, still trained in alberello—the traditional Mediterranean bush vine method—some of which were planted when the Prince of Salina in The Leopard was still warning against Garibaldi; volcanic soils; extremely high planting densities (up to 10,000 vines per hectare); and, with vineyards located at elevations above 1,000 meters, truly unique climatic conditions.

Broadly speaking, the Etna winegrowing region—which in the 19th century covered around 50,000 hectares but shrank to just under 1,000 hectares over the course of the 20th century—can be divided into three zones that correspond roughly to the cardinal directions: south, north, and east. Of these, the north and east stand out in particular for their exceptional terroirs. The differences between these zones are much more significant than one might assume. For example, the eastern side of the volcano is considerably cooler than the north, and rainfall—due to the proximity to the sea—is nearly double.

Anyone who wants to fully understand the wines of the volcano should not just consider the broad orientation of the slopes, but should look closely at the so-called Contrade—small villages and hamlets on Etna’s slopes that, much like in Burgundy or Barolo, offer distinct characteristics to the vines growing there. These differences may be geological (variations in sand content or the age of the lava rock), or they may involve soil depth, elevation, or wind exposure. In total, there are 133 recognized Contrade.

There is widespread agreement that the Contrade on Etna’s northern side offer the best conditions for top-quality Nerello Mascalese. The most important towns in this area include Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo (home to wineries like SRC, among others).

Carricante—the noble white counterpart to Nerello Mascalese and one of Italy’s finest white grape varieties—shows best where it is too cold for Nerello Mascalese to thrive. This often means vineyards above 1,000 meters (the Contrada Pirao sits at over 1,100 meters), or along the eastern slope of the volcano.

Both grape varieties play lead roles in their respective red or white wines but are typically supported by small amounts of other, mostly indigenous, varieties. In the case of Etna Rosso, this is almost always Nerello Cappuccio, though on rare occasions Granacha (the Sicilian term for Grenache) is also used.

Carricante, in turn, is sometimes blended with Grecanico, and more rarely with the exceedingly rare variety Minella.

The best examples—and there are now many—are linear, elegant, subtle, structured, and built to age. Often, even the entry-level wines—especially the whites, but also the reds—are already deeply satisfying.

Part 2 – The Area Around Marsala
Marsala is a charming small town at the westernmost tip of Sicily. In the local osterias, you’ll find excellent fish served with couscous, and increasingly, you’ll also come across genuinely good versions of the often—but not always—fortified dessert wine the town is known for.

Vineyards stretch out in every direction around the city, facing conditions quite different from those found on Mount Etna. The climate here is Mediterranean-subtropical—hot and bone-dry. In summer, not a single drop of rain typically falls. Work hours are limited to the early morning, from around 4:30 to 10 a.m. After that, shutters are drawn and people stay indoors until the evening.

Naturally, the terrain is also very different from Etna’s. This area isn’t shaped by a volcano but by the sea. The vines here take root in sand mixed with limestone—a crucial detail when it comes to the stylistic profile of the wines. These limestone-rich sandy soils provide both excellent drainage and good water retention, making high-quality viticulture possible in the first place. Still, nutrients are less abundant than in other areas, which results in slower ripening, smaller vines and berries, and lower yields—but also concentrates the acidity and aromas in the grapes.

Combined with the intense summer heat, this creates a kind of sensory tension in the wines, which can lead to spectacular results when handled by experienced winemakers. Interestingly, and contrary to what one might expect, the wines here are almost exclusively made from white grape varieties—especially Catarratto, but also Grillo, Zibibbo, and Inzolia. Nero d’Avola definitely plays only a supporting role here.

Part 3 – The Northwest
The area around Trapani and Alcamo is one of the largest contiguous wine regions in the world. It has been so since the Phoenicians planted the first vineyards here in the 8th century BCE. Over the following centuries, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spaniards, and anyone else who left their mark on Sicily continued to expand the cultivation of vines.

Today, much of the vineyard area is dominated by large-scale industrial producers. However, the fact that wine has been made here continuously for such a long time is a clear sign that parts of this region offer truly exceptional terroir.

A perfect example is the wine of Aldo Viola and the vineyards where his grapes grow. For his red varieties, the winemaker from Alcamo has to drive a bit westward toward Trapani. His vineyards lie on a hill with a view of the sea in the distance, whose ever-present winds have a tremendously positive effect on his Syrah, Perricone, and Nerello Mascalese vines.

The same applies to the vineyards close to his winery. The sea is less than 10 kilometers away. Millions of years ago, it covered this area and left behind meter-thick layers of limestone—just as it did around Marsala. Naturally, Aldo Viola works here primarily with Catarratto as well, a grape that thrives in the heat, on limestone, and in windy conditions.

Further inland, about 20 kilometers to the south, the conditions are somewhat less but still noticeably influenced by the sea. The soils are barren and likewise limestone-based, and the weather remains consistently warm. Once again, Catarratto finds ideal conditions here, but the same goes for Grillo, which in Aldo’s interpretation becomes a Mediterranean, herbaceous expression of its surroundings.