Even without studying classical philology or linguistics, it seems obvious to place the origin of Aglianico in Greece. This is all the more plausible given that the grape variety is found almost exclusively in Basilicata and Campania—former hotspots of Greek settlement in Italy. However, there is relatively little evidence to support this, and linguists also argue that the naive derivation from “Elleniko” to “Aglianico” lacks any real foundation.
It therefore appears more likely that this great red grape of southern Italy arrived in Campania via Spain. The earliest documents referring to the variety date only from the early 16th century, a time when the Spanish Bourbons had already begun their long rule over the region. Ultimately, however, this theory also rests on uncertain ground, leaving the true origin of the variety unclear.
The ground becomes firmer when one claims that Aglianico is among the very best red grape varieties of southern Italy. Some even go so far as to place it at the very top. Ian d’Agata, author of Native Wine Grapes, the standard reference work on Italian grape varieties, ranks Aglianico on the same level as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese (“It’s one of the world’s dozen or so best wine grapes.”).
Today, Aglianico is cultivated throughout southern Italy, with three major centers: Taurasi and Taburno (both in Campania) and Vulture (in Basilicata). Aglianico generally has small berries with thick skins, making it relatively resistant to rot and allowing for a long growing season. It is rarely harvested before mid-October, and in some higher-altitude or north-facing vineyards, harvesting can extend into November. Quite resistant to autumn weather fluctuations and most fungal diseases, it is more troubled by excessive heat—which is why it is often found in surprisingly high-altitude vineyards.
Unlike Nebbiolo or Sangiovese, Aglianico is rarely a wine that tells the story of its terroir; rather, it tends to take center stage itself. It almost always produces rich, powerful wines dominated by deep fruit, often with earthy, stony undertones and frequently accompanied by floral notes. It has high tannins and acidity, which—if winemakers aim for it—make it well suited for long aging. At its best, Aglianico truly ranks among the finest grape varieties of the South. However, this ideal is achieved less often than one might hope. Far too often, the wines are powerful but ultimately overwhelming and lacking in nuance.
