Davide Spillare

Davide Spillare spent his formative years under the guidance of Angiolino Maule, the founder of Vinnatur, who lives just a few houses down from him.
It’s hardly surprising, then, that his transition from co-op grower to independent bottler also marked the beginning of his journey into natural winemaking. Since those early days, things have taken a steep upward turn. His original two hectares have since doubled. More importantly, through his interpretations of the sorely underestimated Garganega grape, he has played a major role in its revival — in Italy, they even speak of a “Garganega Revolution.”

Davide’s winery is located in the heart of the village maze of Gambellara. We first met him there in 2011, just as he was beginning to plan how to transform his garage into a cellar. Only a few years earlier, at just 20 years old, he had inherited a few vineyards from his grandfather and decided to break with family tradition: instead of delivering his grapes to the massive tanks of the local co-op, he would make his own wine.

GARGANEGA REVOLUTION
He trained with Angiolino Maule, founder of Vinnatur, Italy’s leading natural wine organization, whose influence is evident in Davide’s entire approach. His rise has been rapid. The two original hectares of vines have now doubled in size. But far more significant is his contribution to the renaissance of Garganega — a grape long undervalued but now at the heart of renewed excitement.

Davide works with vines that are often over 40 years old, rooted in the volcanic slopes of Gambellara. He also tends a few rare plots where the vines are up to 80 years old. These old vineyards are all trained in pergola, the traditional vine-training system of the Veneto, whose shade-providing structure may well prove vital in a warming climate.

Initially producing just two Garganega wines, Davide now bottles four different versions, each capturing a different facet of the grape’s range and complexity.

His entry-level wine, Crestan, puts the grape’s liveliness and energy front and center, and is dedicated to his grandfather Cristian (“Crestan” in local dialect). The two wines made from the aforementioned old and ancient vines come from steep, poor single vineyards above Gambellara. They are textured, expressive, and complex.

The newest interpretation is L1, a bottle-fermented frizzante to which he adds a small percentage of Durella, a grape that’s gaining serious attention in Italy’s sparkling wine scene thanks to its bracing acidity.

The lineup is rounded out by his only red wine — a Merlot rooted in a small patch of clay soil on the plains. Juicy, structured, and full-bodied, it’s a compelling counterpoint to the often dull, sweet, and generic expressions of the variety. Davide proves that with craftsmanship, sensitivity, and gentle vinification, even Merlot can show depth, terroir, and soul.