Blaufränkisch from Steiermark: A Natural Wine Gem
Isabelle Legeron, the dynamic organizer of Raw, the largest natural wine fair, made two Blaufränkisch recommendations in the final chapter of her highly recommended book Natural Wine. Interestingly, neither of these wines hails from Burgenland, but rather from Styrian cellars.
One of the cellars mentioned by Legeron belongs to Roland Tauss, who has been dedicated to Blaufränkisch for years on the steep slopes of Hohenegg, just a few kilometers from the Slovenian border. He believes that the variety thrives exceptionally well in the limestone-rich Opok soils of his vineyards. Additionally, the unique positioning between the warm, Mediterranean-influenced south and the cool, Alpine north provides an ideal climate for the grape's growth.
Due to the steepness of his Blaufränkisch vineyard (with slopes up to 50%), Roland Tauss manages it almost entirely by hand.
In the cellar, the grapes underwent spontaneous fermentation in mash containers. After a rough clarification, the wine was aged in used wooden barrels for over two years, and before bottling, it was neither filtered nor heavily sulfured.
Style
Mineral-driven, open, and with a bite. Cool, crisp fruit takes the lead, complemented by earthy and dark spice notes. The body is taut, dense, and intricately woven, with a fresh, clear, and purist sensation on the palate. Despite its elegance, it carries significant power.
Data Sheet
Varietal: Blaufränkisch
Vineyard: Hohenegg, up to 50% slope; Soil: Opok
Harvest: By hand
Fermentation: Spontaneous | wild yeasts
Aging: Over two years in used wooden barrels
Filtration: None
SO₂: Sulfured at 10 mg/l
Alcohol content: 12% vol.
Closure: Natural cork
Serving temperature: 16-18°C
Optimal drinking window: From now – 2028
Content and price per liter: 0.75 l (€31.87/l)
Philosophy: All winemakers listed by Vinonudo work in their vineyards using compost, organic fertilizers, and natural preparations, avoiding the use of herbicides, pesticides, and artificial fertilizers.
