According to HP Harrer, Neuburger belongs in northern Burgenland just as Sangiovese belongs in Tuscany. Unfortunately, only very few people see it that way, but the few Neuburger specimens that do exist seem to confirm his opinion.
For the sake of Neuburger, HP has thrown away his original philosophy of preferring to lease old vineyards rather than planting new ones and planted a vineyard with Neuburger vines in the Obere Sauerbrunn in 2013. They face south-west and benefit from both the warmth of Lake Neusiedl and the westerly winds from the Leitha Mountains, which is generally good for them. They take root in clayey soils interspersed with pebbles.
He presses two different wines from them, which come from exactly the same harvest batch, but are vinified differently (the comparison is definitely worthwhile). He vinifies some of the grapes in used wooden barrels, while the other part is crushed and slightly crushed in 150-litre amphorae, which he had brought from the Tuscan terracotta stronghold of Impruneta. The grapes and their skins remain in these for a good six months, during which Harrer lets things (fermentation/biological acid reduction) take their course.
Balanced, purist and elegant. Restrained like all well-made amphora wines at the beginning of their career. Straightforward, dynamic and extremely powerful. Floral flavours, fine white fruit, a few stony hints. Tightly woven & dense texture. Long, focussed & compact on the palate.
Grape variety: Neuburger
Vineyard: Obere Sauerbrunn
Harvest: By hand
Fermentation: spontaneous | wild yeasts, in amphorae
Ageing: in amphorae
Alcohol content: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Drinking temperature: 12-14 °C
Perfect drinking maturity: from now - 2030
Content and price per litre: 0.75 l/(€ 30.53/l)
All the winegrowers listed on Vinonudo work with compost, organic fertiliser and natural preparations in their vineyards and do not use herbicides, pesticides or artificial fertilisers.