There are grape varieties that passionate wine drinkers love to talk about—loudly, clearly, and at great length: Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo, for example, or—on the white side—Chenin Blanc or, of course, Riesling.
But if that latter happens to be preceded by the word Welsch, the enthusiasm fades instantly, giving way to a loquacious silence that only lifts when someone remembers a Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese or two that has been slumbering deep in the cellar for years. Occasionally a Styrian Junker also comes to mind, the one that only half-heartedly accompanied the Grammelschmalzbrot at the last Buschenschank visit in Gamlitz, and of which a case was taken home for the neighbor, who likes his wine on the sour side.
With his interpretation of Welschriesling, Reinhard Pacejka shows that there is indeed a third way—beyond 300 grams of residual sugar and 10 grams of acidity—one that is more than just drinkable. His Welschriesling is harvested quite late in the year, yet entirely free of botrytis. Achieving that requires meticulous handwork in the vineyard. Good fruit, however, always makes itself known in the wine. The must is left on the skins for a while, then fermented spontaneously—unfined and without temperature control—aged in stainless steel, and bottled unfiltered.
The result is structured and substantial. It makes room for herbs as well as stone fruit and apples, with aromas that don’t merely float delicately across the surface but leave a deep, lasting impression. The acidity gives direction yet is seamlessly integrated into the wine’s generous body. The finish is powerful, juicy, and vibrant.
Technical Sheet
- Grape Variety: Welschriesling
- Vineyard: Southern Weinviertel
- Harvest: Hand-picked
- Fermentation: Spontaneous | wild yeasts | no temperature control
- Aging: Stainless steel tank
- Filtration: None
- SO₂: < 25 mg/l
- Alcohol Content: 12.5% vol
- Closure: Cork
- Serving Temperature: 10-12°C
- Ideal Drinking Window: Now – 2030
- Volume and Price per Liter: 0.75 l (€22.37/l)
Philosophy: All winemakers listed by Vinonudo farm their vineyards using compost, organic fertilizers, and natural preparations, abstaining from herbicides, pesticides, and synthetic fertilizers.
