Reggio Emilia is the least known of the provincial capitals of Emilia. The centre is nice but small and although there are exhibitions and festivals almost every month, few tourists visit it. Situated midway between Parma and Modena, Reggio lacks the profound identity and history of the other two cities, but is at least in the same league when it comes to food and wine.
The most important product of Reggio Emilia (and the province) is undoubtedly Parmesan cheese. The somewhat abbreviated name of the region's (country's?, world's?) most important cheese is Parmigiano Reggiano in Italian - which makes its significance a little clearer. Prosciutto also plays an important role.
The constant focus on these two culinary landmarks of the city led to the birth of the third: Lambrusco. Although wine was also produced by the farmers in the area as part of a mixed farming system, it only played a subordinate role in their hierarchy. Cattle and milk production came first for the farmers. The grapes were only harvested when everything else was done. It was fermented when cold fog had already settled over the hills and bottled as soon as possible, as there was time to do so in winter. It then finished fermenting in the bottle, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide, which is responsible for the bubbles and sparkle of Lambrusco.
Gallic villages
Today, Reggio Emilia is the most exciting and dynamic region alongside Modena when it comes to the production of bottle-fermented Lambrusco (known as Rifermentato). It is only a small niche in the world of red sparkling wine, but one that has grown over the past 15 years. Around 50 wineries are now competing with an industry that has driven the reputation of the ‘nectar of the gods’ (Francesco Guccini) into the ground through a fatal strategy of ever-cheaper prices and the associated invasive agriculture and vinification that ignores all tradition. They counter the banal idea of standardising an actually complex grape variety family with a repertoire of diversity.
Lambrusco is not just Lambrusco
Lambrusco - like Malvasia, Moscato or Trebbiano, for example - is a family of grape varieties. Today it consists of around 20 different members - 200 years ago there were twice as many. Today, Lambrusco is a conglomeration of grape varieties with their very own morphological, physiological and sensory attributes. Between Lambrusco Sorbara and Lambrusco Grasparossa - to name the two most important representatives of the family - there are about as many, or rather as few, similarities as between Vernatsch and Aglianico.
Lambrusco around Reggio Emilia
Even though there is a significant production of Lambrusco in the plain to the north of Reggio Emilia, the really interesting zone is the one that stretches south of the city over gentle slopes up into the higher Apennines. This is also where the Ca' de Noci vineyard is located, which is representative of the entire region in terms of its range of grape varieties. The Lambrusco varieties harvested there include Grasparossa (dark fruity, juicy, structured, long-lasting) and Montericco (delicate fruit, low alcohol, high acidity, excellent in cuvées) as well as minimal quantities of Marani (floral, good acidity, cherries) and Maestri (rustic, strong).
Malbo Gentile, Sgavetta and Spergola
Apart from Lambrusco, Reggio Emilia has some other exciting grape varieties to offer. Malbo Gentile belies its name (gentile means ‘nice’ and ‘friendly’ in German) with its barely tameable tannins and firm body, but in the right hands and after patient ageing it can become a complex and spirited red wine.
The red Sgavetta also has the best prerequisites for producing excellent wines. It has firm tannins, a lively but not too intense acidity and a wide-ranging aroma profile characterised by dark berries and floral notes.
The white Spergola is really big and far too little known. With an aroma reminiscent of white flowers when classically fermented, it also scores with orange notes and clove flavours when vinified on the skins. Thanks to its animating and lively acidity, it is ideal for sparkling and sweet wines. Despite this, the variety never made the leap out of its local environment - today it is only found near Reggio Emilia, particularly at Ca' de Noci, which dedicates an impressive monument to it year after year with the Riserva dei Fratelli.
Food & Drink in Reggio Emilia
If you happen to get lost in Reggio or are travelling there on purpose, there is a small but fine selection of restaurants and bars where you can combine fine food with natural wine.
Enoteca Vino Naturale Durante: long-established, one of the best and most famous natural wine bars in Emilia (Via del Guazzatoio 12a)
Casafrida: Nice place with great wines and very good food, practically in the city centre (Via Guido Panciroli 1a)
Interno Tre: Impressively good vegan cuisine with an excellent wine selection (Via Blasmatorti 1c)
Macramè: Upscale traditional, with a few fine wines on the menu (Via Francesco Crispi 3)
The Trattoria della Torre in San Polo d'Enza, a few kilometres southwest of Reggio, is also very nice. There you will find traditional food and wines just the way you like them.