How good is Sangiovese (or more specifically, Chianti) all on its own? About as good as the Beatles without George Harrison, Lionel Messi without Sergio Busquets, or Sherlock Holmes without Dr. Watson. In other words, very good—but not quite as good as it is with Canaiolo, its quiet and always understated companion. Canaiolo smooths out Sangiovese’s rough edges when its acidity becomes too sharp, gives it energy when it falters, and adds depth when its body feels too lean. And yet, Canaiolo always remains subtle, never seeking the spotlight—making it the perfect partner, as recognized early on by Baron Ricasoli, the creator of the classic Chianti formula.
That it didn’t stay that way is partly due to the fact that, after phylloxera devastated Europe’s vineyards, Canaiolo refused to take to American rootstocks—the universal savior against the vine-killing insect.
On top of that, oenologists and marketing experts decided it was time for Tuscany to embrace international stars like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Syrah as blending partners for Sangiovese—a mistake from the start, though one few are willing to admit even now. All three demand center stage, just like Sangiovese, which is why true harmony between them is rare. That’s also why Canaiolo—along with the other traditionally minor blending grapes like Mammolo and Foglia Tonda—is experiencing a small but meaningful renaissance.
On its own, Canaiolo is about as good as George Harrison without the Beatles—which is to say, still far from bad. True to its character, it remains understated even solo. But for those who take the time to listen, it reveals delicate floral notes, fine red berry aromas, and velvety, elegantly woven tannins.
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