Collection: Catarratto

The numbers are impressive. Catarratto Bianco and Catarratto Bianco Lucido – the sole components of Aldo Viola’s Krimiso – account for 40,500 hectares, or 34.3% of Sicily’s vineyard area. That makes it the second most important white grape variety in Italy, after Trebbiano Toscano. Exactly how much wine is produced from it remains unclear. However, assuming that many winemakers still live up to the grape’s name – Catarratto means “cataract” or “waterfall,” a nod to the waterfall-like volumes it can yield – the total output likely exceeds that of Austria’s entire vineyard area.

Catarratto has been native to Sicily since ancient times and has long been the workhorse among the island’s white grape varieties – and that used to be evident in the taste as well.

Only recently has a small but growing group of winemakers begun to explore the true character of Catarratto and chart new paths in the process. They are planting on high-altitude north-facing slopes to extend the ripening period, drastically reducing yields, farming organically (often without even needing copper due to the extremely dry conditions), and fermenting with wild yeasts and, in some cases, extended skin contact.

The best Catarrattos are profound, warm, salty, yellow-fruited wines with a strikingly vibrant acidity and a surprisingly strong aging potential.