First things first: Croatina is a grape variety capable of producing excellent wines. It is often bottled under its traditional name, but even more frequently under the name Bonarda, by which it is known in Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy and in the Colli Piacentini of Emilia-Romagna.
Croatina/Bonarda is widespread in both regions and has also long been cultivated in the southern Piedmontese Colli Tortonesi, where some of the finest versions are produced. The variety enjoys well-deserved popularity among organic growers, as it is fairly resilient and especially resistant to powdery mildew (Oidium). Its thick skin also gives winemakers a wide stylistic range to work with. Pressed after just a few days of maceration, it typically yields soft, fruity wines. With extended skin contact, however, it can develop quite powerful and demanding tannins that require a bit of patience – but that patience is usually rewarded.
While in the Colli Tortonesi Croatina is generally vinified as a varietal wine, in Oltrepò Pavese blends are increasingly common. Here, Croatina often takes the lead but is accompanied by other varieties.
In Emilia, Croatina is known exclusively as Bonarda and is almost always blended with Barbera, both in still and sparkling versions, forming the base of the region’s ubiquitous Gutturnio. In northern Piedmont, it occasionally complements Nebbiolo, while in Valpolicella it is increasingly being used in Amarone blends.
Croatina/Bonarda pairs well with oak, though – as is often the case – large or used barrels allow the grape’s character to shine more than barriques do.
Despite regional differences and the welcome fact that many winemakers follow their own philosophies, Croatina-based wines tend to have moderate acidity, but a tannic structure that shouldn’t be underestimated, a substantial body, and aromas that often highlight dark fruits, floral notes, and deep spice.
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