Raína

Umbria is still off the radar for most people in these parts — both as a travel destination and especially when it comes to wine.
Until recently, that wasn’t much of a problem. But over the past ten years, the region around Perugia and Assisi — especially Montefalco — has seen a welcome burst of development. Here, with Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino, winemakers have two fantastic grape varieties at their disposal — provided they know how to handle them. That’s not always easy, particularly in the case of the notoriously muscular Sagrantino.

One of the best examples comes from Francesco Mariani, a trained philosopher who worked for years as a chef in top Italian restaurants before reinventing himself as a winemaker. In 2001, he acquired the 10-hectare estate in Turri di Montefalco and named it after its former owner — just one of many nods to the past. From 2002 to 2008, he planted several parcels, focusing primarily on the region’s traditional grape varieties: alongside Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino, there’s also Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Grechetto. This regional quintet is rounded out by two international classics: Merlot and Syrah.

The vineyards lie between 220 and 300 meters above sea level, face mostly east, and are rooted in soils composed of limestone and gravel. From the outset, cultivation has been certified organic. Since 2012, he has also followed biodynamic principles in the vineyards, although this shift has not yet been officially certified. Either way, no chemical pesticides are used, vines are supported with herbal teas and natural preparations, and sheep from the neighboring farm take care of the weeds. Energy is provided by solar panels, and water comes from a private well.

In the cellar, too, chemical interventions are avoided entirely, with the sole exception of a minuscule dose of sulfur before bottling. Fermentations start spontaneously, and unnecessary interventions (enzymes, mannoproteins, fining agents, etc.) are deliberately avoided. Depending on the wine, aging takes place in stainless steel, concrete, or wood.

Across the board, Francesco’s wines are balanced, vibrant, profound, energetic, and full of character.