Dolcetto is a fantastic variety with one crucial problem: it is overshadowed by Nebbiolo. Whether this is justified or not remains to be seen, but the fact is that in Alba and the surrounding area, every reasonably decent vineyard is planted with Nebbiolo. For Dolcetto - but also for the great Grignolino, for Freisa & Co. - there are usually only the vineyards where potatoes would occasionally feel more at home than vines. In recent decades, quality has suffered as a result and, ultimately, so has the reputation.
You can find out what Dolcetto is really made of in Dogliani and Ovada. The two small regions in southern Piedmont, which have dedicated themselves almost exclusively to Dolcetto, now both enjoy DOCG status. Ovada is also the adopted home of Lidia Carbonetti and Paolo Baretta, who founded their Rocco di Carpeneto winery in 2008 and give Dolcetto the care and attention it deserves.
In the 1.3 hectare Vicario vineyard, the vines for the Losna, whose name is based on a Piedmontese dialect expression meaning lightning, are rooted in a mixture of clay and loam. The grapes are harvested by hand and fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks. The Losna is matured for at least 15 months in a mix of tonneaux and used wooden barrels, which is definitely good for this variety with a tendency towards reduction. The wine is given a small amount of SO₂ before bottling.
Rocco di Carpeneto's wines are always characterised by a linear and precise structure, and Losna is no different. This straightforwardness is contrasted by a compact, full-bodied and concentrated body that combines freshness with richness and balances it accordingly. Embedded in the juicy, dynamic texture are flavours that suggest pepper, dark berries as well as floral notes and sweet spices.
Data sheet
Grape variety: 100% Dolcetto
Vineyard: Vigna Vicario and Vigna Gaggero. Planted with Dolcetto in 1970 (Gaggero & Vicario) and 2002 (Vicario). Both vineyards are located at 270 metres above sea level and are mainly based on loam and clay, with a planting density of 5000 vines per hectare and an average yield of 1kg/vine
Exposure: East
Harvest: by hand
Fermentation: spontaneous | wild yeasts, in steel tanks
Ageing: 14 months in used tonneaux and barriques.
Filtration: no
SO₂: < 50mg/l
Alcohol content: 13% vol
Closure: Natural cork
Drinking temperature: 16-18 °C
Perfect drinking maturity: from now - 2030
Content and price per litre: 0.75 l/(€21.5/l)
Maxime: All winegrowers listed with Vinonudo work with compost, organic fertiliser and natural preparations in their vineyards and refrain from using herbicides, pesticides and artificial fertilisers.
