Verdicchio is, quite surprisingly, a little-known grape variety in German-speaking countries—even though, in our opinion, it ranks among the most exciting indigenous white varieties in Italy.
Speculations are welcome, and I suspect its lack of popularity may be due in part to its origin in the Marche, a region often overlooked by tourists (more on its true origins in a moment), and its unfortunate tendency to be bottled in amphora-shaped flasks, which haven’t exactly helped its image. If Verdicchio were grown in Tuscany and bottled in Burgundy-style bottles, its reputation would likely lie somewhere between Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner—two varieties it also resembles in taste.
All speculation, as mentioned. And speculation also surrounds its origin. Contrary to what one might assume, it doesn't appear to have originated around Cupramontana and Matelica—the current strongholds of the variety—but rather in the Veneto region.
There, it still enhances some of the best Soave wines under the names Turbiana and Trebbiano di Soave. It was brought from the Veneto to the Marche in the 15th century, when the region, ravaged by repeated plagues, was in urgent need of new settlers. These newcomers brought with them Verdicchio vines, which they planted primarily in limestone-rich soils—an ideal match for the variety.
Verdicchio ripens late, allowing it to slowly develop delicate aromas without sacrificing acidity. It's no lightweight either, especially when yields are kept in check. The result is typically floral, juicy, and elegant wines that, at their best, 1) express their terroir with clarity and 2) have excellent aging potential.
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