Nothing grows under a walnut tree, says an old peasant wisdom. A few rows of stone -old vines in Castelvetro di Modena are the exception in this regard. Max Brondolo Tribute pays this peculiarity, who subsequently christened Podere Sottoilnoce, founded in 2017. Under and beyond the walnut tree, he manages around six hectares of vineyards that pull the slopes towards the beautiful medieval town.
It is hard to believe that Max has only been doing wine for five years. One could consider him to be a deeply rooted -rooted veteran due to its clearly defined principles, his profound knowledge of everything that is concerned about Weingarten and Keller, but above all because of the deeply independent and extremely precise wines.
In fact, after long years of work, he got in Milan, whereby the idea of getting wine, presumably already in child days in the deeper subconscious. At that time he accompanied his grandfather in his vineyard in Asti, helped the reading and received a small glass of Barbera for lunch because it simply belonged.
The archetypal grape variety of the Piemont also plays a role in its walnut wine garden, albeit a subordinate. Castelvetro di Modena is the epicenter of the Lambrusco di Grasparossa, the variety of the Lambruscolie family, which results in its darkest and strongest wines. Max naturally does not have too little of her, even if he does not predict a promising future at the current locations, at least at the current locations. "It is," he says, "now too warm for her. Sugar gradation and tannin maturity are now asynchronous, which is why it is becoming increasingly difficult to get balanced versions of her in the bottle. ”
Which is why he gradually replaces Grasparossa in his lower vineyards with other varieties of grape, but at least as interesting: Lambrusco di Sorbara, for example, which has so far been responsible for vital and elegant spumante, especially in the level north of Modena. Or Lambrusco Fiorano, a rather rare member of the Lambruscoclan, which preserves its fresh and engaging aroma even in extremely dry conditions.
Even if Max bubbling red wines is certainly part of what the Lambrusco has in general, it is above all its white wines - bubbling and quiet - which add a completely new dimension to the stylistic and ampelographic diversity of the region.
The Trebbiano di Spagna, which is only known in the zone, plays a decisive part. Max the Funambol, a profound, complex and immensely multi -layered wine, which, at least in our perception, condemns everything that the area has to offer in white creations, is condemned to pure statistics. Max answers the question of why the variety is not planted more often with the fact that it only results in minimal yields even in the prime and is more of a passion for him than a livelihood.
The vineyards are managed organically, but now biodynamic preparations and methods also play an important role. Max learned a lot about it from Gianluca Bergianti, which he refers to without thinking for a long time as a mentor and the most important contact. In the basement, work is made in a manual and extremely meticulous way. Due to the often still hot temperatures during the reading, Max cools the must of his white grapes in order to prevent potential bacterial undesirable developments. The fermentation itself is spontaneous and not temperature -controlled, filtered and is basically not. With its bubbling wines, the second fermentation in the bottle and, as it corresponds to the tradition of the area, without degorable, takes place.
Max bubbling and silent interpretations open the immense potential of the region. However, they also stand for a highly individual approach, which in the event of an amazing depth above all clarity, precision and elegance are inscribed.