For Jörg Bretz, winemaking is also cultural work.Which is why he doesn’t shy away from devoting himself — as one of the few contemporary winemakers — to the mercilessly unpopular Blauer Portugieser. Over the past three decades, this variety has gone into a steep nosedive, now carrying a reputation that places it somewhere between Müller-Thurgau and Sämling — and therefore rather far down the ladder. (Two varieties, incidentally, that Jörg has also embraced, though the wines from them are still resting in cask.) In the decades and centuries before, however, Portugieser enjoyed an excellent reputation and was planted on a large scale from Württemberg down to Lower Styria (Slovenia).
This leaves two possible conclusions: either wine judges up to the previous generation were complete philistines, or the way Blauer Portugieser is vinified today has somehow gone completely to the dogs. Either way, Jörg Bretz shows just what can be coaxed from this unloved grape when yields are reduced, the vines are rooted in sustainably farmed, moderately dry, gravelly soils, the grapes are not picked too early, and the wine is allowed to mature undisturbed for years in large wooden casks.
Style Round, juicy, warm, and fruit-forward. The tannins are mellow, yet they lend structure and vitality, while also giving the BP a sense of substance. The rest is handled by an equally discreet acidity that nevertheless has enough energy to give the gentle body dynamism and verve. Anyone curious about how good (and age-worthy) Blauer Portugieser can be will find Jörg Bretz’s version a revelation.
Technical Sheet
Variety:Blauer Portugieser
Vineyard:Gravel, sandy soils
Harvest:By hand
Fermentation:Spontaneous | wild yeasts, no temperature control
Maturation:6 years in large wooden casks
Filtration:None
SO₂:< 50 mg/l
Alcohol:12.5%
Closure:Natural cork
Serving temperature:16–18 °C
Optimal drinking window:Now – 2026
Bottle size / price per litre:0.75 l (€19.87/l)
Principle:All winegrowers listed at Vinonudo work their vineyards with compost, organic fertilizers, and natural preparations, and refrain from using herbicides, pesticides, or synthetic fertilizers.
