Barbera can be found almost everywhere in Italy, but its heartland lies in Piedmont, southern Lombardy, and the area around Piacenza in Emilia. In total, 20,500 hectares are currently planted with it, and the trend is declining. Back in 1990, there were nearly 50,000 hectares. Frankly, we’d say the loss of those roughly 30,000 hectares isn’t much of a tragedy—Barbera has all too often been turned into utterly forgettable wine that few are likely to miss.
On the other hand, Barbera has all the attributes needed to produce exceptional wines. Its defining—and ultimately decisive—characteristic is its naturally high acidity. If that acidity is tamed, guided properly, and supported by sufficient body, things get very interesting. Key factors include the right site (avoid limestone; clay or basalt are preferable), modest yield expectations, and perfectly timed harvesting. Barbera thrives with lots of sun, cool nights, hot days, and south-facing exposures.
Barbera seems to be most comfortable in wood—not new, small barrels, but used and slightly larger ones (500 liters or more). It doesn't need the extra flavors that new oak would impart, but it does benefit from the gentle oxygenation allowed by wood pores. Patience is rewarded—first in the barrel, and later in the bottle. Barbera ages beautifully, at least when handled with care and vinified thoughtfully.
The most exciting examples of the variety are undoubtedly found in Piedmont, especially in Monferrato (the region stretching from Vercelli to Ovada). Thanks to its expressive aromas and vibrant acidity, Barbera also works brilliantly as a blending partner, and performs exceptionally well as a sparkling wine—particularly in Oltrepò Pavese and western Emilia (as in Gutturnio).
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