Ca' de Noci

Alberto & Giovanni Masini are, in a way, part of the classical avant-garde of Emilia. They have been in opposition since 1993—the year they took over their family estate. Since then, they've been vinifying their grapes into uncompromising wines that precisely capture the story of their origin.

Emilia is undoubtedly one of the most exciting wine regions to explore in Italy today. Over the past few years, dozens of winemakers have proven that a region whose identity was increasingly being strangled by the global Lambrusco industry can reposition itself through individual resistance. In addition to the two dozen or so producers who have restored dignity to Lambrusco, it is above all the reinterpretation of old grape varieties and traditions that has contributed to the region’s renaissance.

Alberto & Giovanni Masini are, in a sense, part of the classical avant-garde of Emilia. They have been resisting the mainstream since 1993, the year they took over their father’s winery. Since then, they’ve vinified their own grapes into wines that leave no room for compromise.

Among walnut trees

Ca’ de Noci is tucked away in the middle of nowhere, 25 kilometers south of Reggio Emilia, where the Apennines gradually fade into the Po Valley. Walnut trees line the driveway, a nod to the etymological origin of the estate’s name. Behind the house lies the first of five hectares of vineyards, planted with old Spergola vines—a little-known white grape variety found only in the hills between Modena and Reggio Emilia. “Spergola,” says Alberto, “has a natural acidity that makes it ideal for sparkling wine.”

The two brothers craft two versions: the vibrant, fresh, and purist Querciole, which makes most Prosecco look outdated; and the Riserva dei Fratelli, a sparkling wine monument that, after four years of bottle aging, combines structure, power, and fruit—showing what Spergola is truly capable of. Both sparkling wines undergo extended skin contact during the first fermentation, which may not align with local tradition but is fundamental to the brothers’ winemaking philosophy.

Their reasoning is partly pragmatic: by extracting tannins from the grape skins, they can stabilize the wine naturally without chemical intervention. Tannins not only protect the wine but also give it structure and substance. Moreover, the skin contact extracts complex aromas that become increasingly expressive over time—something the brothers give their wines generously. That said, they’ve shortened maceration times in recent years to emphasize the lightness and liveliness of their wines.

What else?

Thanks to a warm microclimate, harvest starts and ends unusually early each year—beginning in late August and finishing by mid-September. A team of 15 friends ensures everything is picked by noon to avoid the afternoon heat. Grapes are harvested in 10-kilo crates, then crushed, macerated, and spontaneously fermented. The cellar maintains a constant temperature of 15°C, which benefits fermentation. Depending on the wine’s intent, it’s aged in stainless steel, cement, or wood. That’s it—the rest is left to time.

Besides their two Spergola-based wines, Ca’ de Noci also produces Sottobosco, a red sparkling wine not officially labeled Lambrusco but made very much in that style. It’s based on two Lambrusco varieties—Grasparossa and Montericco—along with Malbo Gentile and Sgavetta, two ultra-local grapes. Primary fermentation takes place in steel or cement, while secondary fermentation—unlike the regional norm—occurs in the bottle. Other major differences from standard Lambrusco include extremely low yields (4,000 vs. 20,000 kilos per hectare), meticulous hand harvesting, and a total avoidance of additives. In short: this is not cheap fizzy wine for German pizzerias or supermarket chains, but a wine that combines drinkability and vibrancy with depth and character. No concessions to residual sugar are made.

Still wines, too

Ca’ de Noci also produces still wines. Gheppio was long a dark-berried, powerful, juicy yet elegant cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbo Gentile, and Sgavetta. That changed recently when the American grapevine leafhopper—a microscopic insect thriving in increasingly mild winters—decimated the Cabernet vines. The wine remains dark and juicy, now aged for three years in old oak barrels.

Then there's Notte di Luna, a white cuvée of Spergola, Malvasia, and Moscato, aged for 12 months in large wooden barrels. It’s undoubtedly one of the most compelling skin-fermented whites in Emilia. Ca’ de Noci sets a benchmark—showing just how much there is to discover in Emilia if you're willing to leave the beaten path.