Collection: Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is not only noble but also ancient. Pliny the Elder referred to it as nubbiola, a Latin reference to the fog (nebbia) that typically settles over the vineyards of Piedmont in late autumn, when this grape is harvested. Since then, it has been repeatedly mentioned in historical records, including a 1402 decree from La Morra that imposed severe penalties for damaging Nebbiolo vines. This strongly suggests that even 600 years ago, people recognized Nebbiolo as the benchmark quality variety of the region—a notable fact, considering that excellent wines were also being made from Freisa, Grignolino, and, in the right zones and skilled hands, Dolcetto.

Nebbiolo—put simply—combines all the attributes one could wish for in a great wine. It offers vibrant acidity and assertive yet refined tannins. It is elegant and delicate, yet possesses depth. It is sensorially complex, subtle, and nuanced, with an immense aromatic spectrum. It is never overpowering. Like no other red variety besides Pinot Noir, it translates its terroir transparently into the finished wine. It also ages brilliantly. But for all of these qualities to truly shine, several interlocking conditions must be met:

– South, southeast, or southwest-facing slopes are ideal. Nebbiolo ripens late and, in addition to the naturally cool climate of northern Italy, it needs plenty of sun. (Unfortunately, especially in Barolo, there is a growing tendency to plant Nebbiolo in less privileged sites simply because it fetches a significantly higher price than Barbera and other varieties.)

– Soils with a mix of sand, clay, and limestone are preferable.

Vinification:
The ideological battle between modernists (new oak, reduced yields, new clones, high-density planting, temperature control, short maceration times, wines approachable early) and traditionalists (large oak casks, long maceration, no temperature control, etc.) that erupted in the 1980s in Barolo and Barbaresco and lasted into the 2000s seems to have ended—slightly in favor of the traditionalists. Thankfully, though, individual stylistic choices continue to significantly shape the wines.

Where it's found:
In addition to the strongholds of Barolo and Barbaresco, it's always worth looking north toward Alto Piemonte, where Nebbiolo also thrives in fascinating and often underappreciated expressions.