There was a time when Nero d’Avola could be found in every corner shop, gas station, and supermarket. The bottles usually sold for four to five euros—but were almost always marked down by fifty percent, making them available for two to three euros. Unsurprisingly, they became a fixture at the parties we used to attend. Back then, they were the red counterpart to the ubiquitous white Doppler bottles. Faced with the choice and no beer in sight, many people reached for the Doppler—and usually didn’t go wrong.
Eventually, even the most seasoned bargain wine drinkers caught on, and Nero d’Avola began disappearing from promotional shelves, returning to Sicily by the pallet. And there it stayed. The boom was over, and the grape’s reputation was in such tatters that it took nearly two decades to even begin restoring it.
That this was even possible is thanks to a handful of winemakers who uncovered previously overlooked sides of the variety—showing that Nero d’Avola could, in fact, produce elegant, profound, and dynamic wines that spoke with striking clarity of their origin.
To achieve this, they simply had to do everything differently from the years before—most importantly, keep yields within reason, harvest ripe but not overripe grapes, and resist the temptation to over-manipulate in the cellar. Instead, they focused on revealing the grape’s inherent character. Easier said than done—but more and more producers are succeeding.
Since Nero d’Avola has been cultivated across the island for centuries, there are countless biotypes thriving in a wide range of terroirs. This diversity translates into an impressively broad stylistic spectrum. That said, some of the most compelling expressions come from the area around Marsala and further east, near Noto.
While Nero d’Avola defies easy generalization, the wines made from it typically offer soft, velvety tannins and a surprisingly lively yet balanced acidity. Dark fruit, Mediterranean herbs, sweet spices, and pepper often shape its aromatic profile.
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