Winery roterfaden

Olympia Samaras and Hannes Hofmann cultivate Lemberger, Pinot Noir, and Riesling on three hectares of land using organic practices on Muschelkalk soils. What they produce is simply astonishing and nothing short of a redefinition of Swabian wine: thus, in Vaihingen an der Enz, some of Germany's most beautiful anti-Rieslings are created, along with Lemberger of unprecedented juiciness, finesse, and depth, and Pinot Noir as clear as Hegel's logic.

Often, some of the greatest wines come from wine regions with questionable reputations, as a new generation of winemakers strives for quality and attempts to break away from the monotony of industrialized mainstream production. Beaujolais would be one example, Trentino another. Comparing Württemberg to these regions—when considered carefully—is a bit of a stretch. The revolution here is too small, and the foundation is not catastrophic enough—after all, there has always been good wine craftsmanship. Nevertheless, in this land of cooperatives, belief in technology, and shallow Trollinger, something is happening.

Two individuals who are particularly turning things upside down are Olympia Samara and Hannes Hoffmann. Olympia, who comes from Thessaloniki, and Hannes, from Vaihingen an der Enz—more precisely from Roßwag—met while studying in Geisenheim. After years of teaching and traveling in South Africa and Austria, the two took over their small winery in Swabia.

There, they tend to steep and very steep vineyards on the terraces of the Enzschleife—a river bend that resembles an arena. On just under three hectares, Lemberger, Pinot Noir, and Riesling grow on Muschelkalk soils. What Olympia and Hannes create from these grapes is simply amazing and nothing less than a redefinition of Swabian wine: Rieslings that impress with their playful lightness and natural liveliness, Lemberger of unprecedented juiciness, finesse, and depth, and Pinot Noir as clear as Hegel's logic.

The winemaking now takes place in a carefully adapted farmhouse. Everything here is well thought out, aiming for minimalist vinification at the highest craftsmanship level: pressing is done in a small basket press, spontaneous fermentation occurs in wooden vats, and aging takes place in old barriques and tonneaux. The wine is not filtered, and sulfites are used minimally.