Autoclaves or pressure tanks represent the industrialisation of Lambrusco in both symbolic and concrete terms. They can be used to produce sparkling wines quickly and cost-effectively. Their quasi-universal introduction in the 1950s led to a multiplication of production, but also to a standardisation and often infantilisation of a previously often highly individual taste profile.
On the other hand, there are the so-called Rifermentati. In the vast Lambrusco ocean, they are the islands to be headed for. With the Rifermentati, the base wine is not fermented in a pressurised tank, but in the bottle. In addition, instead of pure yeast and sugar, a natural sweet must reserve is added, which brings the wine to life in the bottle and encourages the formation of CO2.
This is what tradition dictates, as does Gianluca Bergianti. The president of the small, exclusively Rifermentati winegrowers' association Emilia Sur Li uses the two Lambrusco varieties Salamino and Sorbara for his pink Frizzante No Autoclave and combines them with the white Pignoletto. When not disgorged, the result is lively, with subtle citrus and subtle red fruit flavours and a vertically expressive finish.