When I first visited San Cariano at Monte dall’Ora in 2017 and asked Carlo Venturini about any news, he turned around, lifted his gaze westward, and pointed to a spot seemingly high up: “I’ve bought a new vineyard,” he said, “one of the highest in Valpolicella.” When asked why, he gave a twofold answer: “I wanted a counterpoint to Camporenzo (his other equally excellent single-vineyard Valpolicella), and besides, it’s getting warmer.”
That was the first time I heard about San Giorgio Alto, a vineyard situated at about 500 meters, from which Carlo and his wife Alessandra Zantedeschi produce perhaps the finest classic Valpolicella in the region. Unlike almost all other winemakers, whose focus on quality often rests solely on Ripasso and Amarone, the two of them take the supposedly simplest version of Valpolicella seriously — and spare no effort in doing so. They farm San Giorgio Alto biodynamically, as they do all their vineyards, tend each individual vine with care, and work almost entirely by hand. In the cellar, they take their time. After fermentation in concrete, San Giorgio Alto matures for over a year in large wooden casks, then is bottled unfiltered, where it ages for at least another 36 months.
Style
Since San Giorgio Alto is a site dominated by limestone, perfectly ventilated, and marked by significant day–night temperature differences, the wine shows a taut, cool, structured character of great precision and elegance. Red fruit, spice, and fine herbs contribute to a wide-ranging aromatic spectrum that not only stands the test of time effortlessly but becomes ever more subtle and nuanced with age.
Data Sheet
Grape Variety: 60% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella
Vineyard: Located in the Valpolicella Classica; near Lake Garda, southwest exposure, calcareous soils with white marl and a layer of pebbles
Harvest: By hand
Fermentation: Spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks
Aging: Over 12 months in large 25-hl casks (previously used for Amarone), plus at least 6 months of bottle aging
Filtration: None
SO₂: Yes
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Serving Temperature: 16–18 °C
Optimal Drinking Window: From now until 2040
Content and Price per Liter: 0.75 l (€46.12/l)
Principle: All winemakers listed with Vinonudo work their vineyards using compost, organic fertilizer, and natural preparations, and refrain from using herbicides, pesticides, or synthetic fertilizers.
