Testalonga
Dolceacqua - Liguria
Antonio Perrino is one of those mythical figures in Italian viticulture that everyone knows, but very few have ever drunk a wine from. This is mainly due to the fact that he owns just seven small barrels in which his entire production is stored. In other words, that's (7 x 500) : 0.75 = 4666 bottles, which is a microscopic amount even for a garage winemaker.
The decision to settle for one hectare of vineyard was not only due to the desire to remain small. Although Dolceacqua is beautiful, it is completely off the beaten track of viticultural trails or wine-critical attention in the far north-west of Liguria, just a stone's throw from the French border. Especially in times of American tasting sovereignty and the propagation of an expansive and voluminous wine style, Antonio's filigree and subtle interpretations were counter-designs that were only understood and hoarded by a few individualists.
Instead of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which some of his colleagues also planted in the mountains of Liguria, he stubbornly favoured Rossese and Vermentino, two grape varieties that have impressive potential but whose popularity is limited.
VERMENTINO & ROSSESE
Which is a double shame. Because Vermentino, the much better known of the two, ideally (Antonio) develops an aromatic profile that primarily conveys Mediterranean herbs (thyme, sage, rosemary) and floral notes (broom, acacia) to the nose. In Antonio's Testalonga interpretations, saline notes can also be added, terroir flavours that are due to the thick layers of limestone, the stony vines (between 50-100 years old) and possibly also the proximity of the vines to the sea. The 4000 hectares of Vermentino worldwide (3300 hectares of which are in Sardinia) are contrasted by a full 80 hectares of Rossese, all of which are located in and around Dolceacqua. Louis Dressner, one of the best-known American importers with a profound knowledge of Italian niche wines, once called Rossese "the most exciting grape I have never heard of"; and indeed, Rossese is one of that inexhaustible collection of Italian varieties that are worth (re)discovering.
Rossese is a sensitive and complicated variety. Experience is important, old vines too - Antonio has both. His Rossese, which he has been vinifying for more than 55 years now, is a manifesto for the winemaker's deep understanding of the variety and why it makes sense to look after each vine individually.
ps: Antonio Perrino's wines have been made in his garage since his first harvest. Unlike his Bordelais counterparts, he has always refrained from exploiting this fact for marketing purposes and has always kept his prices within ranges that make his wines affordable.
