Podere Sottoilnoce

Under a walnut tree, an old farmer's saying goes, nothing grows. A few rows of ancient vines in Castelvetro di Modena are an exception in this regard. Max Brondolo pays tribute to this peculiarity, having named his winery, founded in 2017, Podere Sottoilnoce. Under and beyond the walnut tree, he cultivates around six hectares of vineyards that stretch up the slopes opposite the beautiful medieval town.

It's hard to believe that Max has only been making wine for five years. One could mistake him for a deeply rooted veteran of the region due to his clearly defined principles, his profound knowledge of everything related to vineyards and cellars, and especially because of his deeply unique and extremely precise wines.

In fact, he entered the wine business after many years working in Milan, although the idea of making wine likely took root in his subconscious during his childhood. Back then, he accompanied his grandfather to his vineyard in Asti, helped with the harvest, and as a reward—and because it was simply part of the experience—received a small glass of Barbera with lunch.

The archetypal grape variety of Piedmont also plays a role in his walnut vineyard, albeit a minor one. Castelvetro di Modena is the epicenter of Lambrusco di Grasparossa, the variety of the Lambrusco family that produces the darkest and most robust wines. Naturally, Max has plenty of this variety, although he doesn't predict a promising future for it in its current locations. "It has become too warm for it," he says. "Sugar gradation and tannin ripening now occur asynchronously, making it increasingly difficult to produce balanced versions of it."

This is why he is gradually replacing Grasparossa in his lower-lying vineyards with other, equally interesting varieties: Lambrusco di Sorbara, for example, which is accustomed to heat and has so far been responsible for vital and elegant sparkling wines mainly in the plains north of Modena. Or Lambrusco Fiorano, a rare member of the Lambrusco clan that retains its freshness and captivating aromatics even under extremely dry conditions.

Even though Max's sparkling red wines are certainly among the best that Lambrusco has to offer in general, it is primarily his white wines—both sparkling and still—that add a completely new dimension to the stylistic and ampелographic diversity of the region.

A crucial role in this is played by Trebbiano di Spagna, known only in the region. From this grape, Max produces Funambol, a profound, complex, and immensely multi-layered wine that, at least in our perception, relegates everything else the region offers in white creations to mere statistics. When asked why the variety is not planted more often, Max points out that it yields only minimal harvests even in the best years and is more of a passion than a livelihood for him.

The vineyards are managed organically, but biodynamic preparations and methods now also play an important role. Max has learned a lot about this from Gianluca Bergianti, whom he without hesitation calls his mentor and most important contact during his early years. In the cellar, work is done meticulously and with great craftsmanship. Due to the often still scorching temperatures during the harvest, Max cools the must of his white grapes to prevent potential bacterial spoilage. The fermentation itself is spontaneous and not temperature-controlled, and filtering and fining are generally avoided. For his sparkling wines, the secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle and, as per the tradition of the region, without disgorgement.

Max's sparkling and still interpretations reveal the immense potential of the region. They also represent a highly individual approach, characterized by remarkable depth, clarity, precision, and elegance.