Collection: Trebbiano

Trebbiano is one of Italy’s most extensive grape families. It's hard to say exactly how many members it has. What is certain, however, is that only a few of them are actually genetically related. Their only true common denominator is that they are all white grapes. So, anyone claiming to like (or dislike) Trebbiano should first make sure which version of it they're actually talking about.

The reason why so many grape varieties that are essentially unrelated share the same name likely goes back to the Middle Ages, when Trebbiano was highly esteemed and all kinds of grapes were marketed under its name.

A Selection of Different Trebbianos

Trebbianina or Trebbiano di Spagna
One of the best Trebbiano types—although its quality can only be assessed through a handful of examples, since for many years it was used almost exclusively for the production of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (its region of origin), and only rarely for winemaking. Fortunately, Max Brondolo has recently taken an interest in it. He produces two wines from it: Valtiberia, a sparkling cuvée that also includes Trebbiano Modenese; and Funambol, arguably the finest white wine of Emilia.

Trebbiano Abruzzese
Another Trebbiano type capable of producing quite exciting wines—though this rarely happens. That’s often due to high yield expectations, conventional vineyard practices, and invasive winemaking. Trebbiano Abruzzese is marketed under the name Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, though unfortunately, that designation does not exclude the use of Trebbiano Toscano, which is also permitted for production. Good Trebbiano Abruzzese wines—such as the one from Caprera—smell of white flowers, stone fruit, and citrus, and often have a salty undertone.

Trebbiano Romagnolo
An ancient variety mainly found between Faenza and Rimini. Winemakers aiming to bring out its best typically ferment it on the skins, which gives the wines significantly more tension, aroma, and character. A prime example is the Trebbiamo from Tenuta Saiano.

Trebbiano Spoletino
Trebbiano Spoletino continues to puzzle even experienced grape researchers. This is mainly because it's still unclear which sensory attributes truly define it. Some berries are highly aromatic, while others are rather neutral. The Slow Food grape guide offers a detailed description (medium-sized, cylindrical, compact clusters with spherical berries that develop small brown spots during ripening), but reality often looks quite different. Ian d’Agata, another key voice in Italian ampelography, says he doesn't know of a single winery whose Trebbiano Spoletino grapes look alike. It’s quite possible, then, that there is more than one version of Trebbiano Spoletino. That covers the uncertainties.

What is certain, however, is that Trebbiano Spoletino grows exclusively in Umbria, and the handful of wines made with genuine ambition from it are almost universally excellent. They all offer a balanced yet assertive structure, a substantial body, dense texture, and great potential.