Introducing Veneto

Veneto is remarkable in many ways. Alongside Sicily, it is Italy’s largest wine-producing region. It hosts the country’s biggest wine fair in Verona (Vinitaly) and the largest event dedicated exclusively to natural wines in Gambellara (Vinnatur). Its cellars produce an immense volume of dreadful industrial plonk, but also an equally impressive number of highly individual and expressive wines. Veneto is extremely heterogeneous: from the eastern shore of Lake Garda (Bardolino) to the border with Friuli, it includes completely different wine regions such as Valpolicella (exclusively red), Soave, Gambellara (white), and Prosecco (sparkling). These are complemented by a variety of independent sub-regions like the Monte Lessini, Colli Berici, or the volcanic cones of the Colli Euganei, which rise unexpectedly from the Po Valley. There are easily around 50 different grape varieties in cultivation—some local, some international, depending on the sub-region.

1. Valpolicella

Geography:
About five decades ago, Valpolicella doubled its geographic area, adding hills and valleys that had never been part of its 2,000-year-old winemaking history. Given the often excellent wines now coming from these newly incorporated vineyards, the expansion seems absolutely justified—even if purists and old-established families from the original zone might disagree.

Today, Valpolicella is generally divided into two parts: Valpolicella Classica and Valpolicella Orientale. To the west, the Adige River separates the region from Bardolino, while to the east, Valpolicella Orientale transitions into the white wine region of Soave.

Both subzones are interspersed with valleys that begin high up in the Monti Lessini and descend to near sea level just east of Verona. As a result, the wines vary significantly depending on whether the vineyards lie in the hills or on the plains. Broadly speaking, the geology in the hills is based on limestone and tuff, while lower down the tuff gives way to clay.

Grape Varieties:
Valpolicella is unique not only in terms of wine styles but also for its grape varieties—found surprisingly nowhere else, despite being widely planted across its 8,500 hectares. The main grape is Corvina, the protagonist in almost every blend (and blends are the norm here). Supporting roles go to Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta, while varieties like Molinara, Dindarella, Forseleta, and Spigamonte are (sadly) less significant. The diversity is immense, and winemakers have considerable freedom—though there is a broad consensus that Corvina is the most interesting and best suited for Amarone. Opinions vary greatly on the rest of the varietal mix.

Wine Styles:
Valpolicella holds a special place in Italy (and the world) largely because of its unique vinification methods. Nowhere else is there such experimentation with grape drying, and nowhere else is such a diverse range of styles created from dried grapes.

The classic Valpolicella stands outside this trend. It is made like a traditional red wine and is almost always seen as a fresh, light, lively wine—unfortunately rarely taken seriously. With a few notable exceptions (Monte dall’Ora sets a high standard with its single-vineyard bottlings Camporenzo and San Giorgio Alto), it tends to be rather underwhelming.

Amarone grapes are always harvested before those for Valpolicella—and always by hand, since damaged skins would ruin the appassimento (drying) process. Early harvesting ensures high acidity, which is vital as a counterbalance to the naturally high sugar levels from drying.

Fermentation usually begins in late December, lasting about a month, and continues until the yeasts convert all the sugar into alcohol. That the yeasts manage to tolerate alcohol levels up to 17% is one of Amarone’s most astonishing feats. The wine is then aged in wooden barrels of varying sizes and origins—oak is only one of several woods used; barrels made from acacia, chestnut, or cherry are also common. Aging lasts at least two years; reserves require at least four.

Recioto was once Valpolicella’s most celebrated wine. According to historical sources, even the Romans produced a style similar to Recioto. These wines are dried a month longer than Amarone and are released as sweet wines. They are strongly reminiscent of excellent vintage Ports, often with even higher acidity. Produced only in tiny quantities, Recioto is usually reserved for family celebrations in the region. The rest goes to those with a passion for wine’s more obscure corners.

The fourth style in Valpolicella’s portfolio is Ripasso, which has now established itself as number two in terms of quality perception among both winemakers and consumers. The production process is particularly intriguing: after Amarone or Recioto has been fermented and transferred to barrels, the rich, sugary pomace from the dried grapes is left behind. To give classic Valpolicella more body, a portion of it undergoes a second, shorter fermentation on this pomace—thus forming a stylistic bridge between the light, fruity Valpolicella and the often intense, powerful Amarones.

2. Colli Euganei – Volcanoes in the Plains

Unlike better-known regions like Soave, Valpolicella, or the Prosecco zone around Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, the Colli Euganei remain relatively obscure. This is hard to justify. Located in the heart of Veneto—Padua lies at the foot of the hills, and Verona and Venice are both less than an hour away by car—the area has recently produced some of the finest wines in the region. This is primarily due to the exceptional geological and topographical diversity of the hills, which stands out even in a region as varied as Veneto.

The Colli Euganei are the result of volcanic eruptions that occurred around 30 million years ago. Roughly 50 volcanoes emerged from the sea that then covered the plains. This explains why limestone dominates in the lower parts of the hills, and why marine fossils can often be found while hiking. The geological variety, combined with steep topography and Veneto’s warm climate, results in a richly diverse and highly distinctive terroir.

The most exciting wines come from north-facing or high-altitude vineyards, where cooler air provides structure and balance. However, thanks to the talent and knowledge of many local winemakers, excellent interpretations also emerge from lower-lying sites—both red and white, and occasionally sparkling. While the Colli Euganei are well suited for rich, full-bodied reds, the high limestone content in many vineyards also gives the white wines a firm yet textured structure.

The dominant grape varieties are of French origin, which may partially explain why Euganean wines remain underappreciated. Even regions with exceptional geology struggle without indigenous varieties. The most important red grape here is Merlot, and where there’s Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon is usually not far behind. Cabernet Franc and Carmenère round out the quartet—with Cabernet Franc in particular yielding some impressive wines. These Bordeaux varieties were allegedly brought to the area by Italian seasonal workers who brought cuttings back from France in the 19th century.

Several of the region’s most interesting winemakers—especially Claudio and Nevio Scala, and Filippo Gamba of Alla Costiera—have recently been working with the University of Padua to revive old native varieties such as Marzemina Nera Bastarda, Turchetta, Recantina, Corbinona, Pattaresca, and Cavrara.

White wine production here is more nationally than locally influenced. Garganega has long been successfully grown and forms the base for many of the best whites from the Colli. Moscato also performs excellently, especially in the chalkier vineyards. Serprino may appear to be a local variety, but it is merely a synonym for Glera (Prosecco), and serves the same role in sparkling wine production here. Pinella is genuinely native to the region, but is used only sparingly in a few white blends from the Colli.