Weingut HP Harrer

OLD VINES

With few exceptions, HP Harrer’s vineyards are old. He prefers to lease crooked and aged vines and rejuvenate them, rather than planting new ones—though a small Neuburger planting breaks this rule, and soon Furmint will confirm the exception. His focus on old vines is twofold: on the one hand, they produce smaller, more concentrated grapes; on the other, their deep roots allow them to thrive without irrigation, even during the often desert-like summers of recent years. At the same time, his efforts in vineyard restoration also contribute significantly to the preservation of old grape varieties.

Even the most devoted terroir purists in Austria might struggle to locate the Lange Ohn. Situated behind Jois, it gently slopes down toward Neusiedl. The “Lange” (long) in its name refers to the extended rows of vines, while the “Ohn” is thought to reference the “breath” needed to hike up the vineyard. “At the top,” says Hans Peter Harrer, “the soil is poorer, and the roots hit limestone sooner.” Though the elevation change seems minor, it is noticeably cooler and windier. In good years, HP pays tribute to these subtleties. In addition to the Blaufränkisch Lange Ohn—a purist, slender, and multi-layered wine—he also produces the Blaufränkisch vom Kalk, made from the uppermost rows of the vineyard, which is cooler, more focused, and even more nuanced.

The Lange Ohn is Harrer’s vineyard of the heart. Between the vine rows, wild carrots, mallows, mallow-leaf, plantain, dandelion, wild amaranth, shepherd’s purse (great for salads), and yarrow all grow peacefully side by side. They don’t appear to compete with the vines but instead help break up monoculture. HP, who has been Demeter-certified since 2012, uses the yarrow to produce biodynamic preparations.

Once again: with few exceptions, Harrer’s vineyards are old. He prefers to lease crooked and aged vines and restore them, rather than replant. A small Neuburger plot breaks this rule, and soon Furmint will add another exception. His fixation on old vines has two main reasons: they yield smaller, more concentrated fruit, and their deep-reaching roots allow them to survive recent arid summers without irrigation.

TRADITIONAL GENETICS REVIVED

By restoring old vineyards, Harrer also helps preserve rare varieties. One of the best examples is a Traminer vineyard in the Riede Froschau, with 90-year-old vines that were nearly uprooted due to low yields. Harrer prevented the clearing, saving genetic material that is likely unique not just around Lake Neusiedl, but worldwide. This heritage now forms the basis for a wine that is fermented on the skins, exploring the variety’s full potential in intricate detail.

Harrer is convinced that “you can only truly understand a grape’s potential through skin fermentation.” That’s why, beyond Traminer, he also makes an extremely rare, skin-fermented Riesling for the region. That Riesling can thrive at Lake Neusiedl is thanks to the area’s unique microclimate—Neusiedl lies just within reach of the Leitha Mountains. Cool winds from the west sweep through his vineyards, countering the lake’s thermal effects and ensuring the wines remain linear, precise, and elegant. Even the scorching summer heat doesn’t change that much—though it does often lead to acute drought, another reason why old vines with deep roots are so beneficial.

LOSS OF AUTHENTICITY

Here, too, the circle closes. Harrer’s decision to farm biodynamically stems from a consistent move toward a more sustainable vineyard philosophy—driven not only by ethical or qualitative reasons, but also by a desire “to understand why something is the way it is.” That’s something that’s naturally easier when working with nature rather than against it. With this understanding, he also hopes to counter what he sees as a growing loss of authenticity—both in viticulture and in craftsmanship more broadly.

Unsurprisingly, HP’s approach in the cellar mirrors his vineyard philosophy exactly. He relies on extended must oxidation, a manual old Vaslin press, spontaneous fermentations without temperature control, long lees contact, natural malolactic fermentation, 200-, 300-, and 500-liter barrels (acacia/oak), lots of patience, and very little sulfur—sometimes none at all. He makes no stylistic concessions—why would he?

HP Harrer’s wines have everything a wine lover could wish for, and yet they remain distinctly individual in character. His Zweigelt Seefeld, for example, is juicy, vibrant, and full of energy, with fine berry aromas and a cool yet profound texture. The Riesling is linear, demanding, open, and vital. The Traminer is like a bouquet of roses, but with a solid tannic backbone that lends it a structure the variety often lacks. All of his wines share a moderate alcohol level (between 12–13%).

P.S.: Two new wines have recently been added to the lineup: TON STEINE SCHERBEN Neuburger and TON STEINE SCHERBEN Blaufränkisch—both aged in amphorae, which bring out new aromas and textures in each variety and add yet another dimension to his already impressive range of interpretations.